Portland Farmers Market
Connecting Consumers with Oregon’s Agricultural Richness
By Miles McCoy

Oregon agriculture has turned to the past to find a way to directly reach consumers interested in fresh, locally-grown produce and fruits … the farmer’s market.

The innovative Portland Farmers Market leads this revival effort. The popular market was founded in 1992 by a small group of community activists who wanted “to bring the best of the country to the heart of the city.” PFM now runs four different versions that take place throughout the week. But, more importantly, it has spawned similar efforts in many neighborhoods and communities throughout Oregon.

“The goal then, as it remains, were to create a venue where local farmers could connect directly with Portland consumers,” said Stefani-Ruff, PFM executive director. It was a goal that succeeded beyond the original expectations, she said, both in public attendance and grower participation.

Today’s market has moved beyond just growers, and now includes many artisan food products, such as cheese, breads, fresh meats and fish, cut flowers, vegetable starts, and sweets. There are also many vendors providing meals at the market.

She remembers the first market, held in a parking lot at Albers Mill, had 13 vendors on opening day. The vendor list grew to 22 that year and never looked back, she said. Last year, PFM featured 200 vendors rotating through 140 stall spaces.

For example, grower Michael Paine now produces 40 to 50 different varieties each year on his 45-acre farm. Another grower, Chris Roehm of Square Peg Farm, credits the PFM for the farm’s success.

“From a financial standpoint, the farmers market is part of the economic foundation of our farm,” said Roehm. “The biggest percentage of our farm’s revenue comes from PFM.”

And, it is not only long-established farms that are using this marketing channel.

“It has allowed new growers to get a start,” Stefani-Ruff said. “The market will feature at least three new growers this year, which is significant.”

“We are seeing new, younger people becoming growers,” she noted. She attributed this renewed energy in agriculture to a well-developed intern system now found throughout the U.S.

PFM’s three original founders, Craig Mosbaek, Ted Snider and Richard Hagan, recognized this new energy when they decided to start the market. They used personal funds, covered countless volunteer hours, but most important, had a desire to succeed. Marketing costs for classified ads, posters and flyers were a mere $30 that first year, she remembered.

Soon, it was obvious the demand required more markets. A second market opened on Wednesdays in 1997, followed by a third market on Thursday evenings.

“We continue to grow and are now managing a fourth market, called Eastbank, which is located across the Willamette River,” she explained.

PFM took over managing the Buckman neighborhood’s Eastbank market last year when the original founders decided to return to New York. The three-year old venue now attracts 28 vendors serving 1,500 customers each week.

Meanwhile, the other versions continue to prosper. The Wednesday market, held midday in the Park Blocks behind Arlene Schnizter Concert Hall, draws a peak-season average of 4,500 customers.

“Many use the market for lunch,” she said. “This introduces the market to many people who might not access it at other times.”

The Thursday event is at the Ecotrust building parking lot in the inner Northwest’s neighborhood known as the Pearl. In its fifth year, the market has 45 vendors serving about 2,000 customers each week.

That explosive growth is mirrored by the flagship Saturday Market’s attendance. Stefani-Ruff said 10,000 to 12,000 shoppers visit the main PFM during peak season. She estimates customers spend $5 million on local agriculture and artisan food products.

But, it is not just food that draws customers and families week after week. Each Saturday there are also events including demonstrations from leading local chefs, live music, and special food festivals.

A weekly focus is “Taste the Place” that highlights seasonal produce, with the market supplying 1,000 samples each weekend. It gives market customers the opportunity to try many new and unusual items.

Responding to the new interest in cheeses, this October the market will present the Portland “Wedge.” This event will feature many Oregon’s artisan cheeses. Stefani-Ruff said they have contracted this event out to a committee who is actually organizing the “Wedge.”

Similar annual events include “Grazefest,” featuring grass-fed and pasture-raised meat and poultry, mid-summer’s “Melon Madness & Corn Roast” and the “Tomato Fiesta,” with its “Hot Stuff” salsa contest.

She said these events can become too successful, drawing almost unmanageable crowds. For example, PFM had featured local breads, wines and cheese at their “Summer Loaf” festival. But, it became so large and unwieldy that it has now spun off into a totally separate event run by another group.

PRM has created a new sense of community revolving around Oregon’s rich agricultural diversity, helping many small farms survive, while giving Portlanders an unique access of fresh foods.